Exotic France

While Saint-Paul-de-Vence is a pretty hill town perched above the Côte d’Azur, it is filled with daytrippers. Its lesser-known neighbour, Vence, is a real town where you can happily spend a week dipping into the superb collection of patisseries and restaurants and the exquisite Matisse chapel, the artist’s self-proclaimed greatest work. The stained-glass windows in this perfect white, modernist chapel on the hill opposite Vence’s Roman walls flood the interior with coloured light, and wall-height line drawings cover the white ceramic tiles.
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The tiny spa village of Eugénie-les- Bains is seriously remote. Bordeaux is two hours’ drive north; Biarritz is 100 miles to the west. Yet this place is on the radar of most food lovers thanks to French super-chef Michel Guérard. His three-Michelin-starred restaurant gets booked up weeks ahead in summer, and menus start at €135. But just a few minutes’ walk away is La Ferme aux Grives, a sister restaurant where Guérard trials and refines his dishes before they appear on the menu of his main restaurant.
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I used to think that the Côte d’Azur was one long private beach where you had to wrestle with naked Germans for the right to lay your towel out on three square inches of pebbles. The sea, I imagined, was warm fish soup topped with a layer of sun oil. The only places to eat were snooty restaurants, where you couldn’t get served anyway, and the pervading smells were Ferrari fumes and fake lavender essence. Of course I was absolutely right; in July and August, some of it is exactly like that. Read the remainder of this entry »

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The Loire is France’s longest river, and one of its most untamed. But it’s not its landscape that draws most tourists to the lower Loire, but the fine chateaux and palaces along its banks.
Castle building on the Loire started in the Middle Ages with keeps like that at Blois, but it was in the Renaissance that the mania for fine chateaux really began. French kings sponsored huge building programmes at Amboise and Chambord, while rich nobles built palaces like Azay-le-Rideaux, Chaumont and Chenonceaux.
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France itself was born in this northern province between the Marne and the Somme – for it was here that the Franks – ancestors of the French – set up home.
A land of culture, the cradle of Gothic art and an unspoiled environment: Picardy is a treasure-trove of art and natural beauty. Its cathedrals at Beauvais, Amiens, Senlis, Laon or Noyon illustrate the rise of Gothic art as it spread across France and Europe. The charm of its small Medieval town of Senlis or the riches of the châteaux at Pierrefonds, Coucy, Chantilly, Bagatelle and Compiègne, surrounded by magnificent gardens, parks and forests set a nostalgic mood that’s enhanced during festivals, son et lumières shows and Picardy games. Another pleasure inherited from the past – that of good food – is assiduously cultivated: ficelle picarde, salt meadow lamb, gâteau battu and other abundant products of the generous environment. Picardy produce has what it takes to give the most demanding gourmet an appetite! Read the remainder of this entry »

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